'From Sunshine Mountain to Kilimanjaro'

We were already at about 1750m above sea level, a 3 hour walk around the local waterfalls and village, made us realise how much thinner the air was, a steep ascending 3 storey stairwell to see a cloud-covered Kili confirmed this.

Breakfast finished, the landcruisers were waiting to be loaded, the walking guides were introduced, they seemed to be looking us up and down looking for any weakness, all talking in Chagga the local tribe lingo. A variety of unusual hats made an appearance and the Chagga stopped, they weren't quite sure what to make of the Welsh tribe that stood before them!

After three hours of driving through dusty unmade jungle roads, we were passing all the local villagers dressed in their Sunday best, all heading to or from church, you have to wonder how they could look so well presented, men in suits and all the ladies in brightly coloured dresses, when you look at the conditions and poverty of where they lived.

We eventually arrive at the gateway to mount Kilimanjaro, here we are greeted by hoards of porters all prepared to start out on our journey, we all have to register at gate reception, we are not the only group to be leaving that day and we wonder if we will ever see our equipment again. Having gathered our day bags (rucksacks) we were rounded up to start our trek.

Our group consisted of 13 in total, 3 doctors, 3 paramedics, 2 medical reps and 5 various, all bar two living and working in Swansea.

The Nalemoru Gate is 1950m above sea level. We set off at an unusually slow pace, my training had largely been conducted in the wake of a very fit marathon runner, 2 iron men contestants and several other very fit lads, the tortoise and hare story came to mind (most of my training done with a pint glass or can of bow), through sweet corn and cabbage fields we made our way to real jungle (only one toilet) then we stopped for lunch, this was a diversionary tactic to let the porters get in front to set up the first nights camp, we dually arrived at Rongai Simba Camp 2700m, a relatively short 4 hour first day walk but we were ready for food. The path we used was littered with elephant and buffalo droppings, but we were assured our smell would keep them away! 
That night, with a full moon, Kili's snow cap peak was shimmering in the darkness.

                              

Day 2. 
After breakfast, we set off to our next destination Kielelwa Cave 3600m, walking through mainly scrub and moorland. In some sheltered valleys there were giant Senecios 6m cactus like plants, the path constantly winding upwards, Kilimanjaro in plain view now the clouds had cleared, not exactly true when you looked back you could see that we above the clouds, no sight of the surrounding country. Still at a very slow pace with the air getting thinner after 8 hours we reach Camp 2.

                                   

Day 3. 
Today we seemed to be walking away from Kili, towards a formidable looking mountain called Mawenzi, at 5149m its sheer cliff sides looked dangerous, this we were told was a very technical climb for experienced climbers only, but at its base was the last water before ascent day, all water has to be carried from a very grubby looking pool to Kibo hut base camp. After walking up past this pool by 300m altitude we returned and spent the night in the valley at the base of Mawenzi tarn 4330m, temperature well below zero.

                           

Day 4. 
After a short ascent, the path seemed to descend for a while to cross the saddle ridge between Mawenzi and Kili. Between the two mountains we crossed a strange moonscape, a barren waste land with only rocks and dust, 6 hours later and we arrive at Kibo huts 4700m, this is the start point for most of the ascent attempts, I say attempts because shortly after arriving at Kibo someone in another group had succumbed to altitude sickness and was being raced down the mountain on a very unusual looking wheelbarrow-type stretcher. Lunch was followed by a briefing, change and put on clothing ready for the nights ascent. Early to bed ready to be woken at 11pm with tea and porridge. 11.45pm the ascent began. The wind had really started to blow earlier in the evening stirring clouds of dust which was visible by your headlight torches, the weight of the layers of clothing now beginning to tell, the lack of oxygen, the dust, my drinking water had frozen. 

By about half way I was starting to struggle, I stopped to take off a coat, I had worn an extra layer because of the wind chill, but was over heating, Massai, a Trek Guide stopped and offered to carry my rucksack. These boys were fit and used to the altitude, after a few hundred more steps of continued upwards, the night sky which had been lit by the full moon appeared to go dark, we had timed our walk to coincide with a lunar eclipse. Massai assured me that the top Gillmans Point was very close - only 20 more minutes, but after witnessing Tanzanian time, I thought that it might be slightly under estimated, after 40 mins I reached the top, just as dawn was breaking over Africa. It had taken six and a half hours to reach Gillmans Point 5686m, but Uhuru Peak which is the highest point in Africa was still over two hours walk around the rim of the crater, daylight was taking over the mountain and I was standing on the narrow edge of the crater rim. Massai assured me that I had the strength to make the walk, but I wasn't so sure myself. 

Day 5.
I felt drunk and not really in control of my legs, but after two and a half hours of very stop start walking, I finally reached Uhuru Peak 5896m the highest point in Africa. Minus twenty degrees without the wind chill, the towering glaciers to the edge of the mountain, the basin, volcanic floor filled with snow it took a further three hours to get back to Gillmans and to start my descent, a rock screed over 1.5km and 45 degrees straight down.

                     

Two hours later, back at Kibo, 20mins rest, food and a further 4 hour walk to Horombo Huts the next camp, lower altitude better air and sleep.

                           

Day 6. 
Breakfast, and our porters, Trek Guides, Chef, etc., all gather to sing Kilimanjaro song at 'tipping' ceremony, then a very much speedier 8 hour descent down to Marangu Gate. We all register out of the Park and collect our certificates to say we achieved the summit, on to waiting transport and back to the Hotel.

                                          

Foot note. (No pun intended)
I would like to thank all those who donated monies to my walk at last year's West Wales Caravan Club charity event, and to say that all funds raised went to very good causes. 

Many thanks, see you on the Rally Field.
Martin Bevan